Chris Bierman (2010). Coordinator, Information Resources. Wayne M McGrath High Tech. Center - Room 146. (928) 428-8436 chris bierman@eac edu. Jamie Biggers (2008). A.A.S., Eastern Arizona College. B.S.N., Arizona State University. Nursing Associate Professor. Nursing Education Center - Room 222. RebelMouse is the best CMS 2017 and #1 Wordpress VIP alternative. See what makes us so fast, and why you should re-platform with us today.
Technical Help from the Solid Axle Corvette Club Technical Help from the Solid Axle Corvette Club To submit a technical question regarding a 1953 to 1962 Corvette, simply email. In the subject box you need to put 'sacctech/ (your SACC membership number)'. Example: sacctech/1234 If you are not a member, your question will not be excluded, however, it won't get priority. Disclaimer: Our officers enjoy answering questions about your Corvette. Please keep in mind before asking questions that we are not qualified or certified to diagnose problems you may be experiencing with your Corvette.
It is recommended that an A.S.E. (Automotive Service Excellence) certified automotive technician diagnose the vehicle for you. This way you get an accurate diagnoses on the problem and an understanding of the parts necessary to remedy the problem Keep in mind that members enjoy a wealth of information via the SACC quarterly magazine, On Solid Ground. Here are some of the topics contained in the Spring, 2008 issue: -Insulate Your Solid Axle -1956 Goodyear Corvette -Harmonic Balancer Re-Install -Six Cylinder Corner -Will We Need NOS Engine Oil for out Old Cars? -The Willet Run Garage -The Marketplace - Member Classified ********** Looking for help identifying the block drains for cooling system flush on my 1959 283. Pics attached. Which are the drain plugs - front or back?
Also, any tips on accessing the lower radiator hose which seems to require removal of the fan cowling. From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor. Clark: The coolant drain plugs are the 9/16 inch steel plugs located in the middle of both sides of the engine block. You need to remove the plugs on both sides of the block and open the lower radiator drain petcock to completely drain the engine block.
I do not know what the front plugs on your block are for, and do not recall ever seeing these plugs on any of the small block Chevys that I own. I own the following original engine Chevys: 1956 265ci, 1960 283ci, 1962 327ci, 1975 350 ci, and 1992 350 ci.
Your block does not look like any 283 ci block that I have ever seen. But if it works, enjoy.
Neat looking oil pan! The original oil pan on your Corvette was a high capacity steel 5 quart pan (6 quart oil change including the filter). Even on the base engines.
The passenger cars had 4 quart oil pans, with a 5 quart oil change. Does anyone have detailed specifications/dimensions on ’61-’62 seats. I finally pulled my ’61 from the upholstery shop where they had it for 4 months and it is still not completed. They refurbished my seat frames added new foam and recovered them. Seats look great but they do not fit properly.
Obviously they are “over-stuffed” for proper seating position and convertible frame clearance (when top is down). I am fighting with them on fix but it would be great if I had detailed measurements and clearances. Any help is much appreciated. From: Larry Pearson,, SoCal Chapter Advisor. Gary: There are no 'measurements' published anywhere. The seat assemblies were constructed and upholstered in a separate facility and delivered to the assembly line ready to install in the car. No photographs exist showing the upholstery workers assembling the seats.
Al Knoch Interiors has produced a video showing how to install his seat covers over his seat foam and these videos cost about $100 each. Maybe you could start with this. Did you buy new seat foam from Al Knoch to install over the refurbished seat frame? Back in 1961 Motor Trend did a road test on the 1961 Corvette and it shows how the seats looked and fit when the car was new. The original seat foam was molded out of latex foam rubber which deteriorates when exposed to air over a period of time.
Did your upholstery shop add modern plastic foam rubber cut from a sheet over the original latex foam making the seat too wide to fit in the car? The center pleated insert originally had a distinct depression in it. Most upholstery shops over-stuff this area making it appear convex rather than concave.
But it should still fit in the car. The seats should be narrow enough that the seat can be moved back and forth the entire range of the seat track without 'jamming' against the center console. If it jams against the center console, maybe you could remove the 'hog rings' that attach the seat cover to the frame in that area and remove the excess foam rubber and then reinstall the hog rings (they can be re-shaped and re used). I recently lost the motor in my 58 283 Fuelie (rod thru the oil pan) after only 450 miles on a rebuild from a machine shop. I will be replacing it with a GM 350 290hp long block using 462 camel hump heads to raise the compression and to keep some what of an original look.
My question is since the new blocks do not have a road draft tube can I get away with using a vented oil breather cap on the oil fill tube to vent the engine? The Fuel Injection unit should work on that motor with that cam but I would rather not have to put a pvc or breather on the valve covers to keep a stock look. What affect will this have on the motor? I do not want to put a used rebuilt motor in the car again. Member #2034 From: Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Advisor: Mike, Your original engine block had a provision for a road draft tube to draw clean air through the oil filler cap although only hydraulic cam engines had this type of oil filler cap. Solid lifter engines did not have an oil filler cap that would breath fresh air into the crankcase. In order for your replacement engine to vent itself you would need to add a PCV valve somewhere on one of the valve covers which would require some modification along with an oil filler cap that would permit fresh air into the engine.
These oil filler breather caps are available from various after market Corvette parts suppliers. In order to preserve the original look of your valve covers would require extensive modifications of the replacement engine block to provide a PCV valve that first appeared in 1961/1962 RPO 242 PCV valve applications.
After market engine blocks that do not have the road draft tube provision are a crap shoot but can be made to work if you are willing to modify and add a PCV valve to one of your original valve covers. I’M LOOKING FOR A REPLACEMENT 6” X 9”SPEAKER THAT WILL FIT MY 62. THE PROBLEM I’M HAVING IS THAT THE 4 STUDS ON THE DASH HOLD DOWN ARE NOT LONG ENOUGH TO ACCOMMODATE THE AFTERMARKET SPEAKERS THAT ARE ABOUT ½” THICK AT THE MOUNTING FLANGE AND THERE IS NOT ENOUGH LENGTH ON THE 4 STUDS TO GET THE NUTS ON.
I ASSUME THE OEM UNITS WERE CLOSE TO FLUSH THUS PROVIDING ENOUGH LENGTH TO SECURE THE HOLD DOWN NUTS. I SEE AFTERMARKET SMALL DUAL SPEAKERS MOUNTED TO A 6” X 9” PLATE BUT I’M NOT SURE HOW THICK THAT PLATE IS OR IF IT WILL WORK WITH MY STOCK HOLD DOWN STUD LENGTH. ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED. Do you have the original speaker?
If so, use a razor blade and trim the thickness of the cardboard seal to match the thickness of the original speaker cone. The 1/2' thickness that you report is way too thick. If you have the original speaker and the cone is torn with no missing pieces, it can usually be repaired using Elmer's white glue and toilet paper. Yes, toilet paper. It works great. If you want it to look black, use a black felt tip pen to blacken it.
Or as chip suggested, look for someone to re-cone it. Whatever speaker you end up using, the original transformer must be used or the radio output transistor will immediately burn out if you connect the radio output directly to the speaker voice coil.
The radio output transistor is directly connected the transformer primary coil, which is part of its bias circuit, and the four ohm resistance of the voice coil is much too low. Tom: Corvette Central has this nut under catalog number 582107 and comes with a new washer.
It actually is a locking nut and you are supposed to use a new nut and washer every time you remove it. The nut is pinched to make it resistant to coming loose. According to the ST-12 shop manual, page 4-10, the nut is to be torqued to 150-190 foot-pounds. I suggest that you use a large pipe wrench to hold the 'pinion yoke' from turning while torqueing the nut. Originally they had a special tool to hold it and this tool is shown on page 4-10.
It would be easiest if you tightened the nut with the differential installed in the rear axle housing. The pipe wrench can then rest against the garage floor. I suggest that you install a new pinion seal, because it can leak, and then you can do the whole job over again. Steve: The 18 gauge brown wire loose under the dash is most likely the problem. This wire goes from the lower part of the center connector on the ignition switch and the other end goes to the ballast resistor under the hood.
The brown wire from the windshield wiper motor also connects to the same lug on the ballast resistor. The brown wire at the ignition switch locks into the plastic connector and is retained by a tab that is bent slightly up on the crimped-on connector. This is one of three wires that go into this connector. Make sure that the brown wire connector locks into the plastic connector, or this problem might repeat itself. I have a 1959 Corvette with a single Carter 4 barrel WCFB on the 283.
I have the passenger side exhaust manifold casting # 3750556 that has the hole for the inner choke tube, but no choke tube. The casting does not have an exit hole bored through at the base opposing to top hole. I am confused, I see there is a lower choke tube that can be purchase, but if I press it in and attache the upper tube to it, then the Carter choke would be directly connected to the heat and pressure of the exhaust gasses - this doesn't seem correct to me. Am I missing something?
Is the choke tube that is pressed into the manifold open at the other end in the exhaust allowing the pressurized gas to flow to the choke body? Dane: All Chevrolet V-8 engines starting in 1955 with a carburetor had what is known as a heat stove in the passenger exhaust manifold. The purpose of the heat stove is to heat up the ambient air being drawn into the automatic choke housing by a manifold vacuum passage inside the carburetor. This heated air causes a bi-metallic coil inside the choke housing to heat up and twist open the automatic choke valve inside the carburetor air horn and, through linkage, turn a fast idle cam on the base of the carburetor to slow the cold fast idle.
Starting in 1957 the heat stove consists of an approximately 6-inch stainless steel hollow tube that is pressed into this exhaust manifold through holes bored in the top and bottom side of the manifold at an angle and in perfect alignment. Your exhaust manifold must have both of these holes. They never made an exhaust manifold with just the top hole, as you seem to be telling us. If your manifold is defective, you will have to buy a replacement manifold with a good tube in it.
Or try your luck in drilling the lower hole in alignment with the upper hole. Or plug the holes and use an after market electric choke housing. The solid axle fuel injected engines had manifolds without the heat stove. These manifolds without the heat stove are very rare and valuable.
The cast-in part numbers are the same for both manifolds. Sometimes the tube burns through and the tube must be replaced. You don't want hot exhaust gasses being drawn into the choke housing.
Replacement tubes are available through Corvette Central. Be careful if you are drilling out the remains of a burned out tube that you do not enlarge the holes in the cast iron manifold or the replacement tube will not stay in place. Use a pin punch to drive out the old tube remains. The upper end of heat stove connects to the carburetor choke housing with a length of 1/4 brake line and a compression ferrule and special brass hex nut.
The lower end of the stove tube is open to ambient air. In 1962 a special lower tube assembly connected into the lower end and came up and transitioned to a rubber hose that pushed over a brass tube in the side of the carburetor air horn, thereby causing filtered air to enter the choke housing. ********** hi, i have a 62 corvette and the tach only goes up to about 12 to 1500 rpms, i have checked the cable connections and all seems fine. Any thoughts besides replacing the tach?
I really do not want to pull out the cluster!! Thanks in advance for any thoughts charles From: Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Advisor: The tachometer in your Corvette operates on a bunch of spinning magnets that register RPM. Your tachometer is history and needs to be rebuilt by a reputable rebuilder.
On the West Coast many people rely on Valley Vettes, Mike Poirer in San Diego, 619-461-1952. From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor. I have some additional thoughts on this.
The solid axle tachometer operates just like the solid axle speedometer, except that it indicates twice shaft speed. A spinning magnet assembly driven off the tachometer (or speedometer) cable operates inside an aluminum cup called the speed cup and causes the cup, which attaches to a shaft that the pointer is on, to turn against a coil spring. The unit is calibrated by charging or discharging the magnetism in the tips of the spinning magnet assembly. The problem usually is with wear in the bushings that support the spinning magnet assembly. Or the problem can be with the speed cup shaft bushings. Or both. Because of this, you should contact a local speedometer shop that can repair old mechanical speedometers to get it rebuilt.
Corvette Central offers a repair service for solid axle speedometers and tachometers, and they can do the repair for you no matter where you live. It is hard to find parts for these early units and a local shop might not be able to repair your unit. If you have a local shop rebuild it, be sure to tell them to calibrate it to read twice shaft speed! The 58 trunk spears are retained by PAL nuts, not speed nuts. The PAL nut is a self tapping hex headed sheet metal formed nut that cuts its own threads on the trunk spear studs and they have 'PAL' stamped on the flange area.
They come in various sizes depending on the size of the stud they are being threaded on. I think that you need a 1/8th inch size.
The inside cavity of these nuts were filled with grey 3M Strip Caulk to prevent water leakage into the trunk. Contact Corvette Central to see if they sell them.
If not, contact me and I will send you some at no charge. Lucio: There is a 1953-1955 Corvette Assembly Instruction Manual (AIM) that is available through NCRS or the major Corvette parts suppliers, and you should obtain a copy if you have one of these cars. This publication was prepared by Chevrolet engineering to instruct the assembly line in how to build the car. This publication is all drawn by freehand, and there are no page numbers, but I think that you will find it to be very helpful. The antenna lead was run through the rocker panel on the passenger side, along with the main wiring harness. Apparently when the body was being constructed a pull wire was included to assist in the installation of the main wiring harness and the radio antenna cable. Running the cable under the carpet would be the easiest approach, but this is not how the factory did it, as you will see when you get your AIM.
Larry Pearson ********** My question is I would like to know detail specifications on the 1958 convertible top weather stripping,fastening for it,screw type and size of all retainers,and procedures for adjusting the top to the body and the windshield Thanks From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: For help understanding the 1958 Corvette Convertible top mechanism and installation, you need to refer to the official Chevrolet Shop Manual for all C1 Corvettes, Corvette Servicing Guide, Publication ST-12. This publication can be obtained from most of the Corvette Parts Suppliers, and is a “must have” for C1 owners. The information you need is found in Section 1, BODY, pages 1-31 through 1-34. It is not complete, and I do not know any source to go to for all the small details. These tops are not easy to install and I suggest that you go to an experienced upholstery shop to have the work done. It is virtually impossible using words to explain how to install one of these tops.
Al Knoch sells videos that teach you how to install these tops. He also offers a top installation service at Meets he attends. Corvette Central sells all the weatherstripping and hardware you will need, and their catalog illustrations will help you figure out what you need and where it goes. The original weather stripping used on the 1956 through 1958 Corvettes was cloth covered with molded in mounting studs and steel reinforcements, and has been discontinued since 1959. You have to use the 1959 through 1962 style weather stripping and attaching hardware illustrated in figure 79 on page 1-74. Each of the six rubber weather strips on the side frames are attached using black-painted steel retainer strips and #8-32 round-head Phillips screws and special weld nuts as shown in figure 79.
There is also a header weather stripping that installs with its own metal retainer and special screws and the rear deck bow weather strip, which is not illustrated. The header and rear deck bow weatherstrips don’t get installed until after the top fabric is installed to them. The rear deck bow weather strip attaches with screws and staples. There are also two (left and right) short weatherstrips that bridge the gap between the top frame and the rear deck bow.
These attach with screws and 3M weatherstrip adhesive, and are installed after the top fabric is in place. Before attempting to install the top frame, every part of it must be painted and properly shaped (not bent). The frame parts are painted semigloss black and the header is gloss black.
There are tacking strips (also called trim sticks) in the header, rear window bow and deck lid bow which must be in serviceable condition before the top fabric can be installed. Tacking strips are petroleum impregnated (to make them waterproof) heavy cardboard strips that accept staples or tacks to hold the top fabric to these bows. They usually need replacing or repair. All pivot points must be lubricated with grease or 30w oil so they move freely. To install the top frame to the car body, first install the side weatherstrips to the top frame using the metal retainers and special weld nuts on the inside, as shown in Figure 79. Install the top frame to the car body a using the hardware shown in Figure 71 and adjust the frame up and down and back and forth until it fits the side windows perfectly when the windows are all the way up. The side frames attach to the front header using slotted holes to assist in making the adjustments.
The door window stops must be properly adjusted so that the side windows go up the proper amount. Not too high or too low. If you have a hard top, use that to adjust the window stops so that the side windows go up the proper amount.
The linkage that goes up to the center pivot point on the side frames us used to raise the pivot point so it follows the shape of the side window frames. That is all it does. Do not proceed with the top fabric installation until the top frame fits the side windows as perfectly as possible. Things will only get worse once the top fabric is installed. I hope this information gets you moving in the right direction. Get the Al Knoch video if you want to attempt to do the top installation yourself. Larry Pearson ********** 1960 vette, rear leaf spring.
I am replacing both. The front shackle, is that large bolt pressed in, it's threaded on one end only. How do you get that out of the schackle, hammer??
From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advsor: Charlie. The head of the shackle bolt is serrated so it won't spin in the bracket when you tighten the nut. In many cases it is rusted into the bracket.
You probably can remove it with heat but the bracket and bolt my not be reusable. Worst case scenario.use a cutting torch to cut the bolt out of the bracket. Both parts are available new from Paragon or Corvette Central. Note, I suspect it goes without saying that the spring assemble with front bracket attached must be removed from the chassis in order to drive the bolt out. Chip Werstein ********** Hello SACC Tech Im not a member,thought I would still ask. I have a new press molded jig built front end for 62 corvette,I asked the Corvette Image this a.m they do not drill because not everyone wants them. The holes for top fender S.S were not drilled,which has not been to hard to do.
But the hard part! Has been the CORVETTE script and emblem above. Is there a Reliable template out there? This is difficult to do straight at correct location.
Help, car is in paint shop now. Thanks walt From Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President. Michigan Chapter SACC ********** I have a 1958 fuel injected 250 HP corvette, that has been rebuilt from the ground up. We are having difficulty with the full injection unit. It has been rebuilt by known specialists (!), It stars cold easily but when it warm up it stalls and won’t start.?
Where do we start?? Thanks Ken B in Vancouver From: Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Advisor: Well join the crowd with FI cars that won't/don't run in the heat. The problem is todays 10% gasohol gasoline which boils and then percolates at 40 degrees less than pre gasohol fuel did. The copper spider lines of FI cars are excellent of transferring engine heat and causing the fuel to percolate. If under hood engine temperatures reach or exceed 180 degrees you will consistently have this problem and there are no known easy cures.
Not sure if Canada has gasohol but I am sure it does as this problem is rampant in the Southwestern United States. Racing fuel is an option but is crazy expensive and in California is illegal to use on surface streets and highways. I tell my customers to just 'park it' if the ambient outside temperature exceeds 90 degrees as there is no solution to this problem.
Chuck: If you leave the ignition on with the engine not running and the points in the distributor happen to be closed, and you leave the ignition on for some period of tine, both the ballast resistor and the coil will get very hot, and you will discharge the battery. This could be damaging to both of them, and you should avoid doing this.
I have not heard of the resistor getting so hot that the insulation melts on the connecting wires. If you are running some kind of test and you want to leave the ignition on, 'bump' the starter until the points are open, as evidenced by a low ammeter discharge reading. I have a 62 Corvette, 300 HP with a Carter AFB. My question is about a sticking choke. The choke opens fine as the car heats up. The problem is that the choke sticks open. After the engine is cold and I tap the accelerator, the choke won't slam shut.
I always have to take the top off the air cleaner and push the butterfly closed while I hold open the accelerator. I've checked everything and it seems to be that the metal piston inside the choke housing binds in the cylinder.
I've tried everything from silicone spray to emery paper but nothing seems to fix it. I could buy a new choke but I'd rather fix it and save money. Chuck From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor: I am experiencing a similar problem on my 62 340 hp car. All parts and linkage operate freely, but when cold the choke wont close and as a result the fast idle won't set either. Purely by accident, I left the three screws which hold the choke cover to the housing somewhat loose and the choke began to work perfectly. I am now trying to find the right 'tightness' for those screws. I may attempt to put a 2nd gasket between the choke cover and housing.
My problem isn't solved yet, but I think I'm getting close. Charlie: The exhaust system you have was for the base engines (230hp & 245hp) and uses the oval muffler. Each side of your dual exhaust system was serviced with five separate parts, listed from the engine to the rear bumper outlets: exhaust pipe, extension pipe (adapts muffler to the exhaust pipe, about 2' long), oval muffler, tail pipe, and tail pipe extension (about 19' long and adapts the tail pipe to the bumper opening). Originally the mufflers were manufactured with the extension pipe made as part of the muffler, but the mufflers were serviced without this extension, so a separate part was needed to connect the exhaust pipe to the muffler. Here is how the part numbers apply. Exhaust pipe: 3735167 (L.H.), 3735164 (R.H.); Extension pipes: 3815513 (L.H.), 385514 (R.H.); Mufflers: 3815511 (L.H.), 3815512 (R.H.); Tail pipe: 3752555 (L.H.), 3752556 (R.H.); Tail pipe extension: 3762440 (L.H.
The tail pipes and tail pipe extensions were the same for all engines. Also, if you are using the oval mufflers with the solid lifter engines, the extension pipes and the oval mufflers would work on those applications. The exhaust pipes for the solid lifter engines had a crossover pipe arrangement, but otherwise were the same shape and diameter as the base engine application. Charlie: Some additional information since you are planning to sell these parts. I have a 1972 Chevrolet Corvette parts book, and it gives other applications for your exhaust parts.
The mufflers are listed as the low noise service parts for all 1955 (V-8) through 1962 Corvettes. This would apply to the high performance engines also. The exhaust pipes are listed for all 1957-1962 base engine Corvettes. The tail pipes are listed for 1957 (without the extensions) through 1960 Corvettes (the 1958-1960 Corvettes would need the extensions, which you don't have). Bruce Fuhrman ********** Hi I have a 1962 Corvette just bought. I found after I started Driving it, Bad Vibration in drive train. I put it on a lift and found that some body shimmed the shifter to fit through floor hole. They also Shimmed one side of trans Mount, Transmission tail touching X Frame.
Bought new trans Mount, Installed Mount & took 15 washer out so shifter bolted up were it should. Transmission Mount would not bolt in right, so I look into motor mounting found by shimming up right side 3/4 inch transmission moved into alignment. So I pulled Rad, Fan, Hoses out of the way found Engine Tower Motor Mounts Look uneven R/S tower angled down and lower than L/S tower. Looks like engine needs to come Forward 1/2 Inch.
Can you help me? I need the Spec for front frame rails and Engine Tower Motor Mount? Any help would be Appreciated THANK YOU Sthua From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President. (Anthony's question and answer) follows: We have a 59 frame that the 'L' brackets (both top and bottom) that mount the engine supports bolt to, have been destroyed and we would like to find the exact location for placement of the new 'L' bracket. We have been unable to this point to find reference material with specifications & measurements. Can someone help with some direction to acquire these specifications or patterns that will position the brackets properly.
Eye balling of the location from another built frame has proven difficult in being precise. Thank you Anthony ----------------------------------- From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President. Don: The tube from the carburetor to the exhaust manifold has a compression fitting under the nut that threads into the automatic choke cover. The other end simply pushes into what is called the 'choke stove', which is a steel tube pressed into the exhaust manifold at an angle and is exposed to the hot exhaust gasses which heats up the air being sucked into the automatic choke assembly via manifold vacuum present under the choke cover. After years of use, this choke stove tube can burn through, causing an exhaust leak into the automatic choke assembly.
Service replacement choke stove tubes should be available from Corvette Central. To install the new tube, you must carefully drill out the old tube, being careful not to enlarge the holes in the cast iron exhaust manifold. Prior to 1962, the lower end of the choke stove tube was open to the ambient air, and whatever dust and dirt that might be present in that air. Starting in 1962, a lower tube assembly having a bracket on it that attaches to a special exhaust manifold bolt with a short threaded stud formed on the top of it was introduced. This tube pushes into the lower end of the choke stove tube and goes up to the vicinity of the rocker arm cover where it ends.
A rubber hose pushes on to it and goes to a short tube located on the side of the carbureter air horn, where it gets filtered air from the air filter. This choke stove tube is not present on 1962 (only) fuel injected engines.
The 1962 Corvette fuel injection unit is the first one that has a choke valve on the air meter, and this automatic choke is heated with a one-year only electrically heated cover assembly. Starting in 1963, the fuel injection automatic choke assemblies were again heated via a choke stove in the exhaust manifold.
The 1962 right hand side 2 1/2 inch exhaust manifolds not having the choke stove tube are extremely rare and valuable. Barry: There is nothing behind the mirror glass to make it tight. The factory placed the mirror disc in the housing and then a machine rolled the lip of the housing tight against it. The only way to get the glass out is to break it.
You can tighten it up by taking a suction cup and pull the mirror disc to one side and then work clear RTV Silicone sealant into the gap on the other side. When the RTV cures, the mirror disc will stop rattling. You can replace the original disc with a convex mirror if you can find a round convex mirror that is larger than the diameter of the housing and having it cut down by a glass shop to fit in the housing. Use clear RTV Silicone sealant around the back side of the perimeter of the mirror disc, push it into the housing, and it will be secure when the RTV cures.
I successfully did this with the original outside mirror for my 1951 Oldsmobile when the glass broke all on its own. The 'fix' has been in place for over 30 years now. Larry Pearson ********** I have a 62 vette with brake shoes. The front end was completely rebuilt 4 years ago which included brakes and bearings as well. Yesterday I applied the brakes at a speed of about 40 mph and suddenly the steering wheel began to shimmy. The shimmy was very noticeable. Never occurred before.
Drove home and parked it. I feel it is unsafe to drive. Can you give me some advice on this unusual behavior what most likely where to begin looking. Many thanks Darrell From: Doug Prince, SoCal Advisor: The brake shoes and or drums have become glazed or contaminated by oil or grease and erratic braking is causing the steering wheel to 'shimmy'. Fixing this problem is not rocket science as you must examine the brake shoes and drums for these problems. Sometimes just cleaning and sanding will be enough to correct the problem but complete replacement may be the only solution. As for as I know, there is only one way to access the striker nut plate which is located inside the door jam ( you can barely see it after removing the gas tank cover, but it is not accessable).
After removing the rear tires, determine the aprox location of the nut plate in relation to the fender well. Then cut an aprox 5' square hole ( could be round I guess) as neatly as possible in the fender well. At that point you'll be able to access the plate.
Once replaced you can glass up the hole using the piece you cut out. Perfect glass work is not necessary since that area of the fender well is undercoated. Once the glass work is complete, re undercoat the area. I have done this several times and it not as difficult as it may sound. I have a 1960 with a 4 speed Muncie. While pulling the engine for a clean up and rebuild I decided to pull the tranny out and clean it up as well. While doing so I noticed that the cross member that the tranny mount is mounted on is spaced down from the x frame members by about 10 3/8 washers.
The cross member bolts up to the x frame and does have room to be spaced down but just doesn't seem like something that would be done factory. Before I put it back together I wanted to reach out and see if others are that way as well. Dusty: In the first place, the Muncie transmission did not exist in 1960.
I think it was introduced in late 1963 and was used in all the 1964's and later Mid Year Corvettes and sedans. The 1960 Corvettes with 4-speeds came with iron cased T-10 transmissions with aluminum tail shafts. How a Muncie transmission installs in a 1960 Corvette is unknown to me, or Chevrolet for that matter. In 1962, the T-10 became all aluminum and the rear mount was moved forward, requiring a trapezoid shaped adaptor plate to make it work with the existing cross member and in place of the former mounting bracket.
How To Draw Scott Robertson Amazon. They also used two 1/8 inch thick spacer bars (shims) (one on each side) to slightly lower the rear cross member. Chevrolet never used washers to space the cross member down.
I suggest that you stack these spacer bars to lower the cross member as needed to make your Muncie work. Corvette Central sells reproductions of the spacer bars (shims). According to Corvette Central's catalog, the trapezoidal adaptor plate works to mount a Muncie in C1 Corvettes, and maybe you have it.
Chip Werstein ********** 1962 corvette, is the cowl vent screen painted body color, or black? From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor: Cowl vent screen is painted body color. I realize that the top of the vent is painted body color, but the underside of my vent appears to have been painted a flat black. Including the screen. I see no trace of body color in this area.
What is correct, all body color, or black and body color? Thanks, Dale Mullins From: Brad Bean, Solid Axle Corvette Club Vice President: During an earlier repaint, someone may have painted the screen and underside black, so it would 'disappear' when open. Bug hits chipped away at the original screen paint and it was easier/cheeper to take a spray can and paint it black.
However, the correct/original color would have been the same as the car's exterior. ********** Hi there. My name is Michael. I'm in Australia. I have a c1 corvette. I Ve completed a frame off restoration on my 61 corvette.
I'm stumped with completing replacement soft top. Try to download Al knocks video on replacing the canvas roof twice. Already spent 80 US dollars and don't have DVDs, I would be eternally grateful if someone could help with tech drawings or knowledge. Thank you From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor.
Michael: Whoever you bought the top from should have paper instructions with the top telling you how to install the top fabric. If you have never installed a convertible top before I suggest that you pay an upholstery shop to do it. If you want to do it yourself, it would be very helpful if the old top was still on the frame so you can see how it was installed. Or if you have access to another 61 or 62 Corvette so you can see how the top is installed.
The 61 and 62 Corvette top frames are different from the earlier frames. The rear bow that latches to the rear deck lid is made of aluminum and the top attaches to it with the rubber weatherstripping and a plastic bead that is forced inside the weatherstripping to retain the top fabric to the rear bow. It is virtually impossible to tell you in words how to install the top fabric on the top frame.
Here are the basic steps you must take to install the top without a lot of detail. Install the top frame to the car body and adjust the frame up and down and back and forth until it fits the side windows perfectly when the windows are all the way up. The side frames attach to the front header using slotted holes to assist in making the adjustments.
The window stops must be properly adjusted so that the side windows go up the proper amount. Not too high or too low. If you have a hard top, use that to adjust the window stops so that the side windows go up the proper amount. The linkage that goes up to the center pivot point on the side frames is used to raise the pivot point so it follows the shape of the side window frames. That is all it does.
Do not proceed until the top frame fits the side windows as perfectly as possible. Things will only get worse once the top is installed. Remove the rear bow from the top frame and install the top to it using the rear deck weatherstrip and a plastic bead that is forced inside the weatherstrip to retain the top fabric to the rear bow. Make sure it is accurately centered. Install the two fabric straps that go on each side of the rear window to the rear bow using the metal clamps. These clamps go on the inside of the car, not on the outside under the top fabric. These straps protect the rear window from excess stress that could tear it.
Reinstall the rear bow to the top frame and clamp it to the deck lid using the two chrome clamps. You may find it necessary to unlatch the rear bow during the stapling process to make everything tight. Now you have the top fabric attached to the rear bow and things get very difficult from this point if you want to avoid wrinkles. You may have to re-do the job several times to get everything straight and tight and wrinkle free. Don't cut the top fabric and pads to size until everything is right. The top must end up being very tight on the frame or it will 'balloon' at speed. Using a silicone sealer, attach the 'wire-on' binder on to the rear window tacking strip using tacks or staples.
It is important that this area be sealed against water leakage to avoid water wicking onto the cloth backing on the top material, causing water stains inside the car. Install the chrome ends to the 'wire-on' binder after trimming them to the proper length. Go inside the car and use a pin to locate the existing mounting holes. ********** Greetings All - I'm a new owner of a 1962 Corvette which has the original Wonderbar radio that does not work. I think this is not an unusual situation, so I hope others may give me the benefit of their experience on how to remove this radio and advice on getting it repaired. Thank you in advance for your assistance.
Jim From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President. Michigan Chapter SACC ********** Good afternoon. Although I am not yet a member of your organization, I would appreciate your help with an issue I am having in converting from the road draft tube. I have looked in the Adams restoration book and also found that NCRS concludes that the correct PVC valve for the 62 via the AIM is 5649561. The problem is that the part listed is not identified other than the number listed. A search on that number is that the valve is discontued. There is no history or superseded number.
There is also no CV-xxx identifier. My car is a fairly late build (1) and the valve for 63 is cv-590. I would appreciate any information concerning the correct valve for my car.
Windows Xp Pro Service Pack 3 Ita Iso Download. Thank you in advance. Don From: Doug Prince, SOCAL Chapter Advisor: AC Delco no longer services the CV-590 PV valve. It is available from Paragon Reproduction Parts as their part number 14824 and is stamped correctly and is black oxide in color like the originals were. You will also need their part number 4318 which is a road draft tube adaptor and their part number 542K adaptor bolt and gasket kit. These parts were all part of RPO 242 California Emissions. From Bill Preston, Red River Chapter Advisor. ********** We have a 59 frame that the 'L' brackets (both top and bottom) that mount the engine supports bolt to, have been destroyed and we would like to find the exact location for placement of the new 'L' bracket.
We have been unable to this point to find reference material with specifications & measurements. Can someone help with some direction to acquire these specifications or patterns that will position the brackets properly. Eye balling of the location from another built frame has proven difficult in being precise. Thank you Anthony From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President. Michigan Chapter SACC ********** I'm not a member yet but I could use your help.
I have a '56 that the rear wiring harness was stripped out. I need to know the path of the new harness through the body work into the rear. I don't find any appropriate holes.
Ken 1956 Corvette From: Max Brockhouse, SACC President: Ken, Order a reproduction factory assembly manual for your '56 from either Corvette Central or Mid A merica Motorworks. It will show you how the wiring harness is routed. They run about $25.00.
Max **********. The Corvette Assembly Instruction Manual (AIM) shows how the factory installed the mirror on page B28. It says this: 'Drill two.219 dia. Holes in inner panel to match outer panel after bonding'.
So, evidently the outer door skin came pre drilled with the two mounting holes, and after it was bonded to the inner panel, the assembly line drilled the two holes through the inner panel. After the car was painted, the Y-50 mirror got mounted using the mounting bracket and a paper gasket and two machine screws with a lock washer and nut. Larry Pearson ********** I'm finding conflicting answers to the question, 'Is the windshield wiper mounting plate supposed to be the bare metal finish, or painted semi gloss black'? I plan to have the car judged so need a NCRS correct response. Thank you in advance. Robert From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor: The wiper transmission plate was installed prior to engine compartment black out.
So it should be semi gloss black. Consult your ncrs judging manual for conformation. Chip Werstein From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: Robert: The windshield wiper mounting plate was in place when the under hood blackout painting was done, and therefore the entire plate including the mounting hardware (the screw heads) got painted with the same semigloss black paint.
The wiper motor was mounted later and has no blackout paint on it. Larry Pearson ********** Hi We have problem with our fuel injection on 1962 won’t run at stop lights. We have had the fuel injection system rebuilt. We are looking for someone in California who can really work on this system. We have heard about a specialist in Hesperia California. I cannot find anything on the web.
Do you know any specialists in fuel injections in California? Any help is appreciated. Kathy From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor: Kathy Fuel cars hate today's gas. I don't drive mine unless it's a cool day. There is no fix for the problem except 100 plus octane leaded gas.
The southern California expert is in Canoga park.Doug Prince.818 425 0679 Chip Werstein.